Interview with Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald from Twentyten
Interview Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald from TWENTYTEN
In this interview, the two founders of TWENTYTEN , Birgit Kempter and Sabine Grunwald, presented their brand. Find out why they had the idea of integrating historical coins into handcrafted pieces of jewelry, what sets the collections apart and what plans the two jewelry enthusiasts still have for TWENTYTEN. Have fun while reading!
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald
Juwelier Badort: Why did you decide to become a jewelry designer?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: We had an early interest in wearable treasures thanks to our parents, who both come from the jewelry sector. This interest developed into a passion for individual jewelry, which led us to have some pieces made for ourselves in the first few years of our friendship. We supplied the designs ourselves.
Juwelier Badort: How did the idea for your jewelry brand Twentyten come about?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: In the jewelry market, we were missing individual pieces with a casualness that allows jewelry to be worn on any occasion. Our goal was to create jewelry that is truly unique, “one of a kind,” so to speak, and can still be worn on many occasions. The idea too Twenty was born.
Juwelier Badort: Why the name “Twentyten”?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: It's very simple: 2010 was the year the brand was founded.
Juwelier Badort: What inspires you about Twentyten's jewelry?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: We are inspired by the coins! Each individual has a different shape that dictates which piece of jewelry it can go into. In ancient times, coins were not cast, but struck from a ball that deviated in a different direction each time. We also find inspiration in American jewelry designers who successfully work with colored and opaque diamonds, moving away from classic diamonds.
Juwelier Badort: What is special about Twentyten's jewelry?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: The mythology that surrounds our coins and gives our pieces a talismanic character is what makes the creations so special. Twenty is the only jewelry brand that offers ancient coin jewelry adorned with coins of the Greek pantheon. We are also very different from other manufacturers because we offer handmade, unique pieces. Many manufacturers advertise “unique jewelry,” but our pieces with 2,000-year-old coins are truly unique pieces because the coins are only available once. The motifs are similar, but the execution of the minting is always different and the images were made by different artists who use their own handwriting to make each coin unique. Our customers recognize and appreciate these differences. In addition, each piece of jewelry has its own charm and a slightly different look because it is made by hand.
Jeweler Badort choosing a collection
Badort Jeweler: How do you get the rare coins for the jewelry?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: We buy the ancient coins at numismatic auctions. We also buy some coins from regular coin dealers with whom we have built up a good business relationship over the years.
Juwelier Badort: What was it like at the first auctions?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: When we sat at the first coin auctions as “exotics” and the numismatists (note: coin collectors / coin experts) found out that we made jewelry, they initially didn't want to hand over the coins we had auctioned - out of fear that we would Possibly drill through a precious coin, solder something on it or sand it down. We then described the idea of Twentyten and explained that we treat the ancient coins with the utmost care and carefully integrate them into handmade jewelry. After we showed them some pieces from our collections, they were thrilled and even offered to display our advertising brochures in the auction house!
Badort Jeweler: Where are the pieces of jewelry made?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: Our jewelry is made in a small factory in Pforzheim.
Juwelier Badort: How many people are involved in the production of a piece of jewelry?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: 3 - 4 people are involved in the production.
Juwelier Badort: What is the process like when producing a piece of jewelry?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: When we have found special coins and stones for a new piece of jewelry, we create a detailed sketch. We give this sketch as well as the coins and stones to the goldsmith, who either creates the setting in a wax model or constructs the setting after a scan using CAD (note: Computer Aided Drawing). The wax model or plot (note: technical drawing) then goes to the caster. The coin and stones then go to the setter, who carefully integrates them into the setting of the piece of jewelry. Once this work is completed, the piece of jewelry goes to the goldsmith for fine work and finishing. We work closely with the goldsmith throughout the entire process. Time and time again, we only discover problems with unevenness and irregularities in the coins and stones during the process.
Juwelier Badort: How do the individual collections differ from each other?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: We currently offer three fundamentally different collections that build on each other: In the SIGNATURE collection we work real antique coins and individual colored stones into handmade pieces of jewelry. The AIR collection is characterized by individual colored stones that have been incorporated into artistic settings. For the TWENTYSOME collection, high-quality replicas are made of selected coins. To do this, we select a coin every year, which is then cast in 18-carat gold.
Juwelier Badort: Which piece of jewelry from Twentyten do you particularly like?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: We particularly like the big one Coin ring depicting the sun god Helios and an embossed rose ! It makes a statement and completes every outfit.
Twentyth ring with coin of Helios
Juwelier Badort: What do you do in your free time?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: Enjoy the family and the nature around Freiburg... ideally both together ;)
Juwelier Badort: What new collections are being planned for the near future?
Birgit Kempter & Sabine Grunwald: We are planning another small collection in which ancient artifacts will be showcased instead of coins.
Thank you for the interview!
Profile Birgit Kempter
Education: Retail clerk, state-certified business economist
Professional background: Worked in his parents' jewelry store for 10 years,
5 years at Chopard
Tasks at Twentyten: Administration, trade fairs, sales
Profile of Sabine Grunwald
Education: Studied Communication & Design at OCAD, Toronto
Professional background: Art Director in graphic agencies in Toronto & San Francisco
Tasks at Twentyten: Design, collection development, purchase of coins and stones, creation of marketing material
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